PATTERDALE TO GRASMERE

This was the biggest walk so far; a major uphill to start the day, and a long downhill to end it. But in return for the effort, we got to see some beautiful, remote, country with beautiful, beautiful views.

Leaving Ullswater Behind

The first four hours of the day were spent going up the Grisedale valley. We followed Grisedale Beck from close to where it flows into Ullswater, up to its source at Grisedale Tarn at the top of the valley. The walk started gradually uphill in a wide valley surrounded by successive peaks on both sides, then got steeper as the valley narrowed.  Above Grisedal Tarn, it was over the top at Hause Gap and then steeply down the next valley. On this stretch we were walking high above the tumbling Tongue Gill, following it down for the next two hours.  Today’s photos recount that climb and descent.

Today’s walk ended in Grasmere. Before we got to our Bed and Breakfast on the edge of Grasmere, we stopped at the Traveller’s Rest, a well known 16^th century coaching inn.  As it’s been doing for centuries, the inn provided pints to yet two more weary travelers today.

Grasmere is a popular Lake Country stop. William Wordsworth lived here for many years, and he and his family, including his sister Dorothy are buried here. Samuel Taylor Coleridge wrote Rime of the Ancient Mariner will visiting Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage. Other writers and poets were part of Wordsworth’s community and spent time here as well. All of them said they were inspired by the beauty of the area and its mountains.

Grasmere is a pretty little village, but feels a little too pretentious. The hotels, B&B’s, and restaurants are all 4 or 5 star rated from various sources. And they're expensive. Our B&B is on the edge of the village proper and is nice, but doesn’t feel as stuffy as the “downtown” village places. For dinner we went back to the Traveller’s Rest and had dinner and follow-up pints while sitting outside on their patio and watching the lambs play in the field next to us.  Great end to a hard day.     

Back down the valley we just came up

Grisedale Tarn

At the pass, looking down the next valley